Page 54 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Textile & Handloom Related Theory for Exercise 1.3.29

Shawl Weaving Artisan - Power Looms and Handlooms

Jacquard design on graph paper, harness mounting & card cutting

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• explain Jacquard designing, harness mounting, and card cutting for patterned weaving.

1 Introduction to jacquard weaving 3 Repeat size in jacquard design (Fig 2)
Jacquard weaving is used to make complicated patterns Fig 2
like flowers, leaves, letters, and detailed motifs.
In normal weaving, groups of warp threads move
together, but in Jacquard weaving, each warp thread can
move independently using a special mechanism called
the Jacquard machine.
This machine uses:
• Hooks and needles
• Harness cords
• Comber board

• Punched cards (or digital instructions)
This system helps in producing fine, detailed, and large Repeat means how much of the design is repeated again
designs. and again across the fabric.

2 Jacquard Design on Graph Paper (Fig 1) • The horizontal repeat depends on the number of warp
threads used.
Before weaving, the design is first drawn on graph paper
(square paper). • The vertical repeat depends on the number of weft
threads (picks) used.
Fig 1
For example
If a design is 120 threads wide and 80 picks tall, the
repeat size is 120 × 80.
The size of repeat depends on the number of hooks in
the Jacquard machine.
If the machine has 200 hooks, the maximum repeat width
is 200 threads.
4 Harness mounting in jacquard (Fig 3)

Fig 3

Each small square on the paper shows the crossing of
one warp (vertical) and one weft (horizontal) thread.
• Shaded box = Warp thread goes up (design will
show).
• Empty box = Warp thread stays down (background).

For example
If a flower is drawn with shaded boxes on graph paper,
those shaded boxes show where the warp threads will
come up to form the flower in the woven fabric.
This drawing is called the weave plan or design plan.

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